Uncovering the Salem Express: A Red Sea Memorial Dive
- Written:
- By Christian Llewellyn
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Introduction to the Salem Express wreck
The Salem Express, a sunken ferry in the Red Sea, has become one of the most poignant and compelling dive sites for underwater exploration. Located near Safaga, Egypt, this wreck offers divers the unique opportunity to traverse through a piece of modern maritime history. This Salem Express dive not only challenges divers with its depth and structure but also serves as a somber memorial to those who tragically lost their lives during its sinking in 1991.
The Story Behind the Salem Express
Built between 1963 and 1965 in France, the Salem Express originally sailed as the Fred Scamaroni, named after a World War II French Resistance hero. The ship underwent various renamings and purposes throughout its lifetime, finally being christened the Salem Express in 1988 after being sold to the Samatour Shipping Company of Egypt. Serving as a passenger and vehicle transport across the Red Sea, the vessel was capable of carrying up to 1,200 passengers and 142 vehicles.
The fateful night of 14 December 1991 saw the Salem Express, under the command of Captain Hassan Moro, attempt an unauthorised shortcut between Hyndman Reef and the Egyptian coastline. An unexpected collision with a reef ripped open the starboard bow, causing seawater to inundate the vehicle deck and lead to the vessel’s rapid sinking, trapping many passengers inside. The official record shows a stark toll: 464 to 485 lives lost, with only 179 to 180 survivors. The immediate aftermath involved extensive but grim rescue operations. The wreck was subsequently discovered shortly after its sinking due to the significant attention and documentation the incident had received, transforming swiftly into a dive site. Currently resting at a depth of 30 meters, the Salem Express lies relatively intact with exploration areas including the bow ramp, passenger cabins, and personal artifacts like scattered luggage still evident inside. However, diving the Salem Express is often approached with respect due to its history as a mass grave site. Its exposed surfaces are colonised by typical Red Sea marine life, including various reef fish and coral growths, creating a contrasting scene of vibrant life against a backdrop of somber human history.
The Stats: Depth, Conditions & Accessibility
12m
Minimum Depth
30m
Maximum Depth
Boat Dive
Dive Type
25m
Visibility
Mar – Nov
Season
22°C - 28°C
Water Temp
Where Is The Salem Express?
The Salem Express is a renowned dive site located in the Red Sea near Safaga, a coastal town in Egypt. This area is rich in coral reefs and marine life, attracting divers from around the world. The nearest major city is Hurghada, which also serves as the primary gateway for international divers; this city has an international airport that facilitates easy access through direct and connected flights from various global locations. Dive trips to the Salem Express are usually organized from Safaga or Hurghada, with most dive centers located in these areas offering guided tours to the wreck.
My Experience Diving The Salem Express
Diving the Salem Express wreck in the Red Sea is a poignant experience, reminding one of the profound stories that the seas hold beneath their waves. Organized by a local dive company renowned for their professionalism and intimate knowledge of the Red Sea’s numerous wrecks, the journey to the dive spot was as smooth as one could expect. Early in the morning, our group of divers, enthusiastic yet somber about the site’s history, boarded the boat in Safaga. The waters were unusually calm that day, which seemed to add a respectful tranquility to our dive.
As we geared up, the dive leader briefed us on the Salem Express wreck’s depth and the potential challenges we might encounter. My first impression as we descended was the sheer size of the wreck – a large passenger ship resting on its side, which turned into an artificial reef teeming with life. Penetration inside the wreck is forbidden as it is declared a Maritime Tomb, so we preserved the integrity of the site and respected its history.
The dive was intense and emotional, as the wreck is not just a dive site but a memorial. The surface interval allowed us to reflect on the lives lost in the tragedy, and the journey back to shore was quiet, with divers introspective and generally more bonded by the shared experience.
My Experience Photographing the Salem Express
Diving and photographing the Salem Express in the Red Sea was an encapsulating experience, combining historical intrigue with underwater beauty. My journey through this submerged ferry meant navigating a site filled with poignant reminders of the past, surrounded by vibrant marine life. The conditions were challenging, with variable light and the depth of the wreck testing my equipment and skills. Amidst the coral-encrusted structure, I focused on capturing images that would honor the site’s history while showcasing the teeming life it now supports.
Using a specialized underwater camera setup allowed me to manage the tricky lighting and clarity issues typical of wreck diving. Adjusting the white balance was essential to counteract the typical blue-green tint of underwater photography, ensuring that the colors of the marine life and the rusted features of the ferry itself were vividly captured. Despite the profound depth and the emotional weight of the wreck, obtaining these images felt like paying respect to the story of the Salem Express, making every shot both a technical challenge and a tribute.
What You’ll See: Wreck Features & Marine Life
Inhabiting the wreck of the Salem Express, marine life has flourished, creating a poignant contrast to its tragic history. As you descend towards the wreck, one of the first things you’ll notice are the vibrant coral formations decorating its structure – a vivid splash of color on the somber, barnacle-encrusted surfaces. Schools of glassfish dart through the water, filling the nooks and crannies of the wreck. Larger species, like groupers and trevallies, patrol the perimeter, seemingly guarding the site.
Photography enthusiasts will find the Salem Express wreck an eerily beautiful subject for Red Sea wreck photography. The juxtaposition of vibrant marine life against the backdrop of a tragic maritime disaster makes for powerful imagery. Divers can capture scenes of soft corals swaying in the current, with sunbeams filtering through the water, illuminating parts of the wreck in a surreal glow.
Recommendations for Diving the Salem Express
1. Research the specific wreck’s history and configurations to enhance your dive experience and recognize key features.
2. Ensure your certification includes wreck diving or advanced open-water skills, as wreck environments can be complex and hazardous.
3. Conduct a dive briefing with your dive group or guide to discuss dive plans, communication signals, and emergency procedures.
4. Assess the environmental conditions like current, visibility, and water temperature on the day of the dive to adapt your plan accordingly.
5. Equip yourself with a reliable dive light to navigate murky interiors and highlight marine life.
6. Use a line and reel when penetrating the wreck to ensure a safe exit route.
7. Maintain good buoyancy control to avoid disturbing sediment which can reduce visibility and damage the wreck’s ecosystem.
8. Keep close to your dive buddy and regularly communicate to provide support and monitor each other’s safety.
9. Be aware of sharp edges and unstable structures inside the wreck; approach with caution and avoid tight spaces if not properly trained.
10. After the dive, log your experience detailing the conditions, your observations, and any challenging aspects to improve future dives and share insights with the dive community.
Tips for Photographing the Salem Express
1. Familiarize yourself with the history and layout of the Salem Express before diving, as understanding the wreck’s background will enrich your photographic perspective.
2. Use a camera with manual settings to better adjust to variable underwater lighting conditions and achieve sharp images of both the wreck and its marine inhabitants.
3. Employ a red filter or adjust the white balance to combat the blue-green color cast and bring out the true colors of the wreck and surrounding marine life.
4. Utilize a high-quality underwater strobe or flashlight to highlight details and create contrast, especially in the darker areas of the wreck.
5. Focus on creating a narrative with your photos by capturing scenes that tell a story of the wreck’s history intertwined with its current state as an artificial reef.
6. Always keep safety in mind; maintain a respectful distance from delicate structures and ensure you are well-practiced in buoyancy to avoid stirring up sediment.
7. Plan your dive timing and depths carefully, considering the Salem Express wreck depth to optimize natural light exposure and manage decompression limits effectively.
Practical Dive Info & Booking a Trip
For those planning to experience the Salem Express Dive, several reputable operators in Safaga, including ‘Blue Ocean Dive Centers’ and ‘Orca Dive Clubs,’ offer guided tours to this site. The cost for the dive, including equipment rental, typically ranges from €80 to €120. To preserve the integrity and respect the somber nature of the Salem Express, divers are advised to follow guidelines strictly, such as no penetration into the wreck and minimal interference with any artifacts or marine life. Photography is encouraged, but with the caveat of sensitivity towards the site’s history and environmental impact.
My Rating & Final Thoughts
Diving the Salem Express was a deeply moving and memorable experience. This shipwreck is not just a dive site; it’s a maritime grave and a poignant reminder of the lives lost in its tragic sinking. While the dive offers an insight into a somber historical event, it also presents a stunning array of marine life that has reclaimed the site as a new habitat, creating a surreal juxtaposition between human tragedy and nature’s resilience. This dive strengthened my appreciation for the importance of responsible diving practices and the need to respect such wreck sites as historical artifacts and graves.
8/10
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
The Salem Express wreck offers clear visibility, typically ranging from 20 to 30 meters, depending on the season. Water temperatures vary from 22°C in winter to 30°C in summer, making for comfortable diving conditions most of the year.
Due to the depth and nature of the wreck, it’s recommended for divers to hold an Advanced Open Water certification or higher. Divers should also be prepared with a dive computer, a good light source, and a surface marker buoy for safety.
The wreck of the Salem Express is a thriving artificial reef, home to a variety of Red Sea marine life. Divers can expect to see lionfish, moray eels, groupers, and occasionally, larger pelagics like barracudas and trevallies.
For the Salem Express, besides standard scuba gear, it is advisable to carry redundant air supply systems like a pony bottle, a dive light, a backup light, and a wreck reel to navigate inside the wreck safely.
Divers should remember that the Salem Express is a gravesite, where many lives were lost. It is crucial to approach the dive with respect, avoiding removing any artifacts and not disturbing the site more than necessary.
The best time to dive the Salem Express is from May to October when conditions are generally optimal. During this period, the sea is calmest and visibility is at its highest, enhancing the overall diving experience.
Yes, for the Salem Express, it’s best to opt for operators with solid reputations like Emperor Divers, Blue O Two, and Red Sea Diving Safari. These operators provide experienced guides familiar with the wreck and emphasize safety.
The Salem Express is a poignant site, as it sank in 1991 after hitting a reef during a storm, leading to significant loss of life. The wreck serves as a memorial, and diving it offers a unique perspective into a major maritime tragedy.
Yes, photography and videography are allowed at the Salem Express. However, divers are urged to practice responsible behavior by not disturbing marine life or the wreck’s structure while capturing images.
Yes, it is highly recommended to have advanced training such as PADI’s Wreck Diver Specialty or equivalent. This training helps divers understand how to safely navigate wrecks and manage potential hazards unique to wreck diving.
Some of the links on this page may be affiliate links. If you click on them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. This helps us continue our work—thank you for your support!
